Reply With QuoteI bought the Goss GE034 fuel pump and installed it. The car runs SOOOOO much better but it did not eliminate my occasional power loss/semi stalling issues. I'm at a loss.
atleast you have yours fairly well pinpointed...
im about to do new leads, rotor cap n button, plugs, fuel reg, filter, lines, walbro intank pump and cleaned injectprs to get rid of my intermittent power loss, intermittent misffire, intermittent shuddering/pinging under heavy load.... fun fun fun.
with the stalling, my fuel pump relay was playing up, would randomly stall etc, the hard start could also be the relay not priming the system - when i put a new relay in i could hear the pump prime when the ignition was switched on.
i have a spare fuel pump relay sitting here i pulled from the wreckers today if you want it.
'90 E30 318i
soon to be 335i
I bought the Goss GE034 fuel pump and installed it. The car runs SOOOOO much better but it did not eliminate my occasional power loss/semi stalling issues. I'm at a loss.
Pressure regulator?
'90 E30 318i
soon to be 335i
Deleted clutch fan today. Wow, what a difference that made. No more vibration through the chassis, the car feels like stock. Engine/Trans mounts were not the cause of the vibration after all.
Wired up my 16" electric pusher fan. Works well. Got stuck in road works for about 10 minutes on the way home and the temp gauge did not creep up over half.
If you're still having stuttering etc. problems - check the plethora of vacuum hoses for leaks. The L-Jet is a bit sensitive to vacuum leaks (although nowhere near as bad as the old K-Jet system on the e21s!) - the Motronic was much improved on this front.
Also the usual servicing things - how new are your spark plugs?
You just reminded me what I was meant to do when I was at my father's workshop. I got distracted by the electric fan installation and gearbox oil change that I forgot about checking for vacuum leaks.Originally Posted by luke
Spark plugs looked pretty new, as do the Eagle 7.0mm ignition leads. I think there may be some distributor issues though since it's only revving to 6,000RPM. Hopefully a new rotor button sorts that out. I've already put a new coil in there.
Last edited by Hooffenstein HD; 12-01-2013 at 07:55 PM.
When I bought the car, the worst thing about it was certainly the interior. It had been re-trimmed in some 90's Hyundai looking cloth, and have since faded and torn apart. They didn't stop at just the seats either, the door cards and parcel shelf have been trimmed too.
I've bought some houndstooth door cards, rear cards and rear seat to replace the mess. So far, I've only swapped in the rear seat as I'm waiting for my friend to find the rear cards and black handles for the front cards before I can install them.
That alone has tidied up the interior nicely. Can't wait to get the door cards in.
Bought a sticker for the lulz.
I'm a lost cause; still haven't bought a radiator but I did this.
Deleted this crappy OEM manifold with the restrictive emissions probes.
Installed these cheap, shitty eBay headers.
Booked in at AAA exhausts, 9AM tomorrow morning to have my exhaust tucked up and connected to headers. The exhaust has sagged so much that it's scraping everything at M-Tech height. That is the one and only reason I haven't put the H&R Race in yet.
Last edited by Hooffenstein HD; 15-01-2013 at 10:13 PM.
Had the exhaust done. I really wanted to keep it as factory sounding as possible but once I got it to the exhaust shop, we found out that the exhaust was too rusted to really weld anything so we had to make a full exhaust from the faux X pipe that came with the headers back.
It's now; Headers/faux X-pipe > Y pipe> single 2.25", 14" long resonator >single 2.25" pipe > 2.25" inlet to dual 2.25" outlet backbox.
I thought it might sound crappy being a single pipe but it actually sounds amazing. So much deeper note than before and it does not feel like it lost any power, mid range, torque etc.
Cool - the 2.25" should be good an an M20. I just had my M30 exhaust restricted down to 2.25" through the front resonator to reduce the drone of my exhaust - it did the trick. Doesn't give me headaches from idle to 2000rpm like before, and seat of the pants there is very little difference from the 2.5" right through.
Quiet at idle and low revs - gives a good grumble when you get on it. Singles sound good - they are a bit more prone to droning than twin systems are though.
How'd your temp go today in 42 degrees?!
Creeps up to 3/4 at traffic lights but gets back down to 1/2 by the next one. Repeat process.
hmmm - don't get stuck in road works!?!
More noob questions......
Last night while I was driving, my steering became really stiff for a good ten minutes, then it went back to normal, then stiff again. I decided now was a better time than any to delete power steering as it may be a dying pump causing the problem.
Spent an hour or so dicking around in the engine bay getting my bear paws into the tight space between the motor mount arm and steering rack. Got the power steering completely deleted, drained and capped with a Condor Speed Shop delete and although deleting it made far more of a noticeable increase to performance than headers/zorst the problem has not been fixed. Sometimes it's extremely easy to turn, as if the power steering was still there and sometimes it's super stiff(NOT SPEED RELATED).
I'm wondering what else can cause intermittent stiff steering?
I am thinking maybe strut mount bearings, or a fucked rack. Should be going to an E36 rack soon.
I would almost certainly say strut mount bearings. Otherwise the rack but I would think that would be much less likely. Usually play is what is felt in a dying rack, not stiffness to my knowledge. The strut tops are a much more likely candidate for intermittent binding. Imparts should have them fairly cheap. I need to do mine too so if you go that route let me know what they set you back.
Dished M50
Yeah i noticed a difference in the stiffness of the steering when i put the new struts in with new bearing up top too, not a great difference but was definately lighter and less resistance.
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