It pings on premium? wtf, what is your static ignition timing?
my car pings/knockz.. with premium if i remember correctly... (b4 i got it serviced) habn't tried it from then on.. i use optimax/shell ultimate etc...
It pings on premium? wtf, what is your static ignition timing?
shrug* i dont know. but im sure the mechanics would have corrected all that 4 me.. leaded and optimax (high octane) my car runs fine.. but not unleaded... but then again optimax is unleaded.. but it runs good on my car.. so therefore i guess must be the octane number.. needs to be high.
Try using Mobil Synergy.
Yes thats because unleaded is a lower rated fuel than both premium and LRP. It will ping if you run unleaded, shouldnt if you run premium.
Kym,
If you're getting 20km/10 l POST-SERVICE, I wouldn't assume things such as you're timing are set correctly....
1. Check your timing: should be 22 degrees BTDC at 2200rpm, small lug visible through bell housing on intake side of engine at far rear. I use a mirror to see in. Use this mark to correctly mark your flywheel for the future.
2. Make sure you use the right plugs wr9lc, or wr9ls if you can get them. Gap them correctly,
3. New rotor/cap/leads on your ignition? If not, replace/check.
4. L-Jet m30's have a "heat up" phase that gives you a rich mixture until your water temp heats up. if you have a bad temp sensor, you will get bad economy as your motor will run constantly rich mixtures. Check the resistance of your sensor as engine temp changes.
5. Install a EGO sensor in your exhaust. Will allow you to tune you engine via real time information (tell you rich/lean etc). This will allow you to calibrate your AFM,(or alter the curve you install a AFM interceptor module, as being released in september via Jaycar/silicon-chip/autospeed mag).
6. Have you done a compression test to check for bad head gasket/ or signs therof (overheating etc).
7. Are your tank/ fuel lines leaking?
8. Get rid of your fuel saver turbines etc. If you like, send me 200$ in the mail and I'll cut one up from a beer can for you that will double the effectiveness of your current device. 2x0=...
Do a basic web search on any such magic devices you are offered). Have a read of articles on autospeed.com.au : good sources of info on such devices/worthwhile add-ons
9. Buy/find a manual (dl.bmworg.ru/book/haynes/). Bentley is the best for BMW's, although will cost you a pretty penny.
10. look at Aarons e28 site for dealer links/decent service options.
(ACE28's a legend)
11. Search the archives of e28/e23/e24 forums on bimmer.org for info. Might even find someone has had the exact same problem in the past.
Best regards,
Hope you fix your issue.
Speedo/odometer.
I "think" the e23 has the same instruments as the e28. The speedo is electronic, but the trip meter/odometer (ie the little rolling barrel of numbers) is mechanical. When produced, it is thought the wrong type of grease was used for lube, and the plastic gears tend to break as they crumble.
These gears are available as new replacements from places in the US, or you can find a few local speedos and try to mix and match gears. (search the bimmer.org forums for the US replacements)
This means the speedo still works, but the numbers dont roll.
If yourspeedo itself dies, its likely to be the sensor at the diff, or the SI board that feeds power to the speedo. If you pull the speedo to change/inspect the gears, change your SI board nicads to remote batteries, as the originals tend to leak corrosive fluid as they age, and digesting your SI board. At the same time you can disconnect your SI leds if you feel the need.
welcome aboard wally, what kinda E28 do u have?
barge![]()
What he saidOriginally posted by wally~e28
10. look at Aarons e28 site for dealer links/decent service options.
(ACE28's a legend)
![]()
My head just expanded and spilt my drink.
Btw, i just updated my little BMW service list.
here:
BMW Resource Printout
it is a Wordpad document..pretty handy to have next to the phone.
1984 E28 528i 5spd Manual
1979 E21 323i 3spd Auto (rebuilding)
Want E28 info:http://aaron.aussiefiverdriver.com/index.html
Hi ace28, thought you'd like that one...
Seriously, been following your' posts on the strut braces : good stuff. If you're planning to use allloy, I've used a welding/brazzing rod for aluminium before called Duriweld, came from somewhere in qld. You use a propane torch to heat it up (ie plumbers use them for pipes, connect to your favourite bbq gas bottle), it sticks, you grind afterward. I used it to repair cracked alloy heads, alloy cases etc and it never cracked/ split on me. Cost ~$30 for half a kilo or so.
theres a lovely, simple racing dynamics alloy basic brace on this 6'er.
http://www.islandia.is/smu/structure/sn-898photocompile3.htm
I think I'll have to join the end of your line for when your brace sets find their way to market...
PS. My Early post should have read mark harmonic balancer, not "mark flywheel": the lug is already in the flywheel. Chapter 5 of the haynes manual at the previous url will show you how to line it up.
Hi barge,
I've a e28 85 4auto m30 528i, accentuated with stock lovely (ack..hack..ack..) TRX wheels,
Best Regards,
Wally
I don't think that 20l/100km is unheard of in an M30.
I can quite easily top that figure depending on how I drive - and mine's a 2.8 litre 5sp (as opposed to a 3.2 auto), hauling a fair bit less weight.
I'd usually expect between 12-15l/100km around town with 'normal' driving. Spirited stuff up mountain roads or just a late-for-work fang will send that figure soaring.
The M30 straight six is a lovely motor but not exactly a paragon of fuel efficiency with it's 7 main bearings and chain drive.
1984 BMW 528i E28
he said 20km for $10 he put in. Thats not 20L/100km. Thats more like 50L/100km.
i get 9litres to every 100klms at 100klms an hour on the freeway with no headwind. (5th gear overdrive on 260/5 Getrag)
that said...it does goe up a fair whack when driven hard 14/100
And being a seven...with the weight etc.. i wouldnt be suprised.
The timing may have been advanced a little for the hioger octane like mine..mine pings badly when revved hard with stanard ULP.
Stryut brace... i have been wanting to get in to serious alloy welding for a while, i have access o a OXY, but nt sure on the specifics to weld aliminium...i wouldnt mind playing around with the "DuriWeld" will have a look around for it.
It is still a good idea to paint the timing marks like i did on the flywheel.. i dont use the Harmonic balancer..cant get proper acces with the timing light. (te Harmonic balancer lug is mainly for BMW service.)
Oooyeah you're right. Misread the post. Now THAT'S cause for concern.Originally posted by Madhatter
he said 20km for $10 he put in. Thats not 20L/100km. Thats more like 50L/100km.
1984 BMW 528i E28
Yeah, hence daves post about fuel tank leaking![]()
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks