Parts for my suspension/brake overhaul, can you check it :)

[Gruelius]

31351091764 2 Front Sway Links
31351129139 2 Front sway bush (MTECH 20mm) (need to measure bars to determine which i need)
31351127414 2 Front sway bush (MTECH 18.5MM)
31321125878 2 Front Shock boot
31311127285 2 Front Ring
31331128523 2 3mm Spring Pad Upper
31331124322 2 3mm lower spring pad
07119904295 6 Strut tops nuts
32216769539 2 top of shock struts
34359058889 1 Brake pad sensor
Bilstein Sport Front Shock instert x2

33551130349 2 Mtech Sway Bush
33551130349 2 Rear Sway Bushes
33551126932 2 Rear Sway Link
07119931021 2 Flat washers for rear struts (dont think either of my cars have this will need to check before i order ((car is still getting welded up)))
07119914647 2 Bolts for rear strut lower
33531136385 2 5mmm spring pads
34351179819 1 brake pad sensor
Bilstein Sport Rear Shock x2

34211153194 2 ATE repair Kit Caliper x2
34111157038 2 ATE repair kit guide bush x2
34411159467 1 Parking Brake Shoes x2


Questions i have are, have i forgotten anything that i might want to do?

Should i want to get new nuts and bolts for everything or is that a bit excessive? This car is going to stay m20b23 for a long while.

Ive allready got the subframe/trailing/front control arm bushes, braided lines and slotted discs for cheap.

i figured id replace the caliper seals just because i can with the calipers out of the car. Or should i just leave the caliper seals and guide bushes. Also for a super tight handbrake what else should i replace. i dont think the cables are worn in the car because they havent been adjusted on the handbrake much

Also where can i get the green brake pads from for cheap?

Anyone got good photos of timing belt wear (im going to take the cover off to have a look at my belt when i get a chance)

Thanks.

[djs325]

List looks pretty comprehensive.

Caliper seals are a good idea, but unless you're changing over to solid brake guides on ATE calipers front & rear, I wouldn't be too bothered with the rubber guides. They seem to be alright for 20+ year old parts.

The whole new nuts & bolts thing is a good idea, as many of these can sieze and/or snap when removed.

Handbrake cables can be adjusted, also need to check that the shoes are in good order (underneath the rear discs).

Next time you do a water pump, change the timing belt and tensioner.

Regarding EBC Greens, they should be available from any good retailer of RDA product: http://www.rdabrakes.com.au/

[Stoney]

what springs are you using in the suspension?

the only other suspension/bushes you have missed is the engine, trans and diff mounts

and then driveline parts like guibo and centre bearing

these parts are definately worth at least checking

but looking at the research you have put into it, i'm sure you have covered it pretty well yourself

[Gruelius]

Mtech 6cyl spring. I am most likely going to drop it again later on when i grow some balls.


Engine mounts are brand new oem rubber and trnany mounts are about 2 years old, guibo i would guess to be 2 years old.



Can you tell if the timing belt is on its last legs by inspection? Im going to do water pump and replace the tensioner as well as cam seals when i get the chace because motor has had no service history. I just would like if i can drive it for 5-10k without doing it.

also do water pumps show weakness before failing?

[MtechMick]

I would get some Superpro urethane bushes for the swaybars, control arms, subframe etc instead of rubber ones. They have offset urethane for the front control arms which are nice. Whiteline do a rear subframe kit in urethane.

Those components (water pump, belt etc) don't show blatantly obvious signs that they are about to fail. Whenever I buy an E30 I do all belts, water pump and tensioner regardless of whatever the previous owner says they've done.

[Gruelius]

yeah ive changed ps and alt belt (AC belt was wrong size and aircon is e30 aircon so it wont work anyway lol)

ill probably drive praying the belt wont snap for 5000kms before i get around to changing it.

So if im doing timing belt, should get the belt tensioner (do i need to get a new spring too?) camshaft seal + oring waterpump waterpump gasket. Might also get thermostat and cooling hoses (unless its just as cheap for those items here) becuase ill add them to the bulk parts order from the US


oh yeah, are there any other prevenative things i really should do if i dont know about the motor? its done 280,000kms. Bit of valve tick but i hear thats a common factory option lol

also ive got noltec polyurethane subframe and trailing arm bushes. strut tops are E36 HD ones or E46 i forget, Front control arm bushes are OEM offset M3 bushes. will be doing new control arms most likely when i get adjustable strut tops so i wont bother to get urethane ones for now.



As for the swaybar bushes, urethane for those and then oem links?

[Gruelius]

Ive now decided i wont do the shocks so i figured i wont order from USA either, Anyone able to reccomend some local parts places?

31351127202 2 Front shackles
31351091764 2 Front Sway Links
31351129139 2 Front sway bush (MTECH 20mm) (gotta figure out the right one)
31351127414 2 Front sway bush (MTECH 18.5MM)
31321125878 2 Front Shock boot
31311127285 2 Front Ring
31331128523 2 3mm Spring Pad Upper
31331124322 2 3mm lower spring pad
07119904295 6 Strut tops nuts
32216769539 2 top of shock struts nuts
34359058889 1 Brake pad sensor

33551130349 2 Mtech Sway Bush
33551129195 2 Rear Shackles
33551130349 2 Rear Sway Bushes
33551126932 2 Rear Sway Link
07119931021 2 Flat washers for rear struts
07119914647 2 Bolts for rear strut lower
33531136385 2 5mmm spring pads
34351179819 1 brake pad sensor

34211153194 2 ATE repair Kit Caliper x2
34411159467 1 Parking Brake Shoes x2
EBC Green brakes

11611284663 1 Damaged hose for air.

thats the new list. Sorta less geed up about the car now and i guess its not that hard to change the bushes down the track if decide to go for something tougher.

What sort of diff mount should i go for? i havent inspected the current one yet but im guessing its not going to be good.

[Gruelius]

goly shit $170 for brake pads!

If ive got ates at the front aswell will i just order rear pads x2?

what pads should i get if i dont want ot spend heaps on green pads?

and anyone got the part numbers for the ultimax pads? i want ones which can use the brake lining sensors.

[Gruelius]

I think im an idiot, i cant just grab the ates on the rear and swap em to the front can i?

[djs325]

Nope.

I think im an idiot, i cant just grab the ates on the rear and swap em to the front can i?

[Gruelius]

Should i get new ball joints pressed into my current control arms or should i just order new ones? they dont NEED to be replaced for rwc but the guy said theres a bit of play in em. Got another set of arms that i could try to use which are in slightly better condition.

New part list. I reduced the list of things to try and save cash. Anything i should replace if im dropping out the rear subframe and doing the front control arms too (if new ball joints being pressed into the arms is ok instead of buying new ones)

I was going to order it from pelican parts but is it ok to order it locally?

Front sway Bars
31351127414 2 Front sway bushings MTECH 18.5MM
31351129139 2 Front sway bushings MTECH 20mm
31351127202 2 Front shackles
31351091764 2 Front Sway Links
31351129139 2 Front sway bush (MTECH 20mm)
31351127414 2 Front sway bush (MTECH 18.5MM)
07129906196 2 nuts for sway link to bracket on arm
07129964672 2 Nut for bracket on Arm
07129964672 2 Nut for link to swaybar
07119922856 2 Nut for bushing bracket

Front Steering
07129922436 2 Tie rod end nuts

Front Struts
31331134314 2 Front Shock boot
31331128523 2 3mm Spring Pad Upper
31331124322 2 3mm lower spring pad
32216769539 2 Self Locking Nut
31331092887 6 Strut mount nuts

Control Arm
31106774714 2 iNNER balljoin Nuts
32216769539 2 Outer Balljoint Nuts
31111137888 4 Lollipop Bolts

Rear Swaybar
33551130349 2 Mtech Sway Bush
33551129195 2 Rear Shackles
33551130349 2 Rear Sway Bushes
33551126932 2 Rear Sway Link

Rear subframe
33331126136 2 Nuts Subframe bushings
07129900047 4 Nuts Trailing arm
33531136385 2 5mmm spring pads
33531128610 2 Upper spring pads
34351179819 1 brake pad sensor

34211153194 2 ATE repair Kit Caliper
34211153194 2 REPAIR SET BRAKE CALIPER GIRLING
34411159467 1 Parking Brake Shoes x2
11611284663 1 Damaged hose for air.


Timing
11311713361 1 Timing Belt
11311711153 1 Tensioner
11311280960 1 Pin For Tensioner
11311267746 1 Spring for Tensioner
11121285609 1 Camshaft Seal
11121265087 1 Camshaft O Ring
11511722677 1 Water Pump Gasket
11519071562 1 Water Pump
11511706710 1 Fan Belt
64521706826 1 Air Con Belt

[djs325]

It's often cheaper just to buy the ball joints rather than a replacement arm; but to make it worthwhile you need to have free access to a hydraulic press (20T should do) and a range of adaptors to push out and push in the new ball joints.

For the race car I keep a spare left and right arm, and when I did a change out last year I replaced the ball joints in the arm I removed; saved about $60 from memory. Need to get myself a pair of control arm bush brackets (lollipops) so I can have proper spares!

I'd see what you can source locally at an equivalent price; just to try and keep the weight down as shipping will kill you, and USPS can only ship up to 66lbs to Australia from memory. I know that 30lbs (~13.5kg) will cost you at least US$250 by the cheapest USPS service, would hate to see you spending a lot of money buying in nuts and bolts when you could source non-genuine from bolts shops or buy parts assortments for cheap.

[Gruelius]

eek!

what are some good places that would be happy to take lists like that and give me prices? Should i but the locknuts from a aftermarket place or is it ok to get em from a bmw parts place, figured its easier.

yeah im loving having a whole spare parts car to rebuild the suspension on lol

Thanks

[Gruelius]

bah i cant afford ebc greens, especially if i might be going bigger brakes down the track.

What brake pads are the good sort of regular stuff. The EBC black pads, only can get those on the rear, the bloke called up RDA and they told him nope for the front lol

[nomis3613]

goly shit $170 for brake pads!

Yeah, sure is steep to buy locally.

Jump on to the American Ebay, there's heaps of Green Stuffs on there, and then beg the sellers to ship it to Aus at a decent price.