BMW S50 B32 VANOS FAILURE - Prevention and Repair

[///MOOVER]

Now where is this noise actually generated? It is also louder when the engine is hot-no noise at startup or with a cold engine.
I also had a u-tube response to a clip of my vanos noise stating that replacing the vanos did not quieten his engine, but replacing the gearsets did.
The other question is how loud is actually too loud and is going to cause grief?

Noise comes from the gears inside the VANOS becoming worn so as the oil gets hotter and thins there is extra movement in all components (so I have read).

Replacing the VANOS DID quieten my engine which runs like a Swiss watch since. Of course, when you spend the money for a brand new VANOS all the gear sets relating to the unit and those that go into the camshafts are all new. Others' engines that stay noisy may have tensioner issues...

[///MOOVER]

I am told the "1" you are going to try is only a group 3, hence is not on the list posted above

Thanks for reminding me about the "1"... I think I recall that from quite some time back. I am giving Castrol Edge Sport 0W-40 a run instead and next to go in will be Royal Purple which has favoured support and better still some good results.

[holong]

Thanks for reminding me about the "1"... I think I recall that from quite some time back. I am giving Castrol Edge Sport 0W-40 a run instead and next to go in will be Royal Purple which has favoured support and better still some good results.

I think I'm going to give Castrol Edge a run next oil change too! (next week)

[///MOOVER]

Just a quick one on oils for the technically minded:

http://books.google.com.au/books?id=...sult#PPA412,M1

Admittedly some pages are missing due to it being preview, but there is still lots of interesting material. Should the link not take you to the correct page, see about the 400 mark....

[///MOOVER]

I am told the "1" you are going to try is only a group 3, hence is not on the list posted above

Just an update on oil. I recall this mentioned before as I posted in another reply and given my curiosity about base stocks, I called Castrol, Mobil and Shell today about what groups their premium oils are derived from. The results are:

Castrol Edge 0W-40: Group IV PAO and Ester Based

Mobil 1: ALL products from the Mobil 1 range (be it engine, transmission, gear oil) are Group IV PAO

Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40: Group III

All techs regardless of company stated benefits of both and primary benefit of the Group IV to be temperature range. I was also advised that the equivalent Shell in Europe is a Group IV due to the extreme cold of winter. The other feedback was the same that I have read on other sites that Group III will carry the additives better, and according to Shell, carrying the additives is what the oil serves and it is the additives that provide the protection and cleansing. The molecule size issue was interesting tangent, but I start to wonder whether this is not taking things to far and simply dropping the oil every 5000k a simpler answer.

My conclusion is that Castrol Edge 0W-40 is a great oil for the $70 for 5L but I wonder why Mobil 1 comes as such a premium when using a similar base stock. I suppose the additive package must be the answer. It is also clear now why Shell Helix Ultra is the cheapest because it is a Group III (even though the tech was telling me that is still classed as fully synthetic. Spending more and getting a Group V is probably the best answer, because going from $70 for 5L to $100 say for Motul or RP is not that big a jump in dollars.

For now Castrol Edge 0W-40 will be going into my car and I will advise how it goes. I expect that it will be thin enough for the VANOS but protect the engine at the same time. I will be stick to changing my oil every 4000-5000km and hope that I will not have to invest in another new VANOS.

On the topic of VANOS life, my car now is now up to its third unit and Holong's M3 is similarly up to number three, where both cars have had perfectly timed full dealer servicing. I would be curious for other M3 owners to look at their VANOS unit and advise the build date of it to perhaps determine whether it has been changed or not. The manufacturing year can be seen on the front just to the right of the exhaust solenoid.

At least our rescue is here with the existence of Dr Vanos and his ability to cure the noise issue for a fraction of replacement cost. He does indeed purchase old VANOS units too, as Morerevs stated, which makes me glad to be a horder and have kept my old unit as I have at least offset a little bit of that pain! See more at www.drvanos.com

[DaFoxM3]

I have been using Castrol edge 0w-40 for the last 3 years in the 3.2L, and find it great. car runs like a dream smooth and quite. I change the oil and filter evert 6,000km, (about have the green lights) I put 6.0L in and 6.0L come out.

[slammedM3]

Just an update on oil. I recall this mentioned before as I posted in another reply and given my curiosity about base stocks, I called Castrol, Mobil and Shell today about what groups their premium oils are derived from. The results are:

Castrol Edge 0W-40: Group IV PAO and Ester Based

Mobil 1: ALL products from the Mobil 1 range (be it engine, transmission, gear oil) are Group IV PAO

Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40: Group III

All techs regardless of company stated benefits of both and primary benefit of the Group IV to be temperature range. I was also advised that the equivalent Shell in Europe is a Group IV due to the extreme cold of winter. The other feedback was the same that I have read on other sites that Group III will carry the additives better, and according to Shell, carrying the additives is what the oil serves and it is the additives that provide the protection and cleansing. The molecule size issue was interesting tangent, but I start to wonder whether this is not taking things to far and simply dropping the oil every 5000k a simpler answer.

My conclusion is that Castrol Edge 0W-40 is a great oil for the $70 for 5L but I wonder why Mobil 1 comes as such a premium when using a similar base stock. I suppose the additive package must be the answer. It is also clear now why Shell Helix Ultra is the cheapest because it is a Group III (even though the tech was telling me that is still classed as fully synthetic. Spending more and getting a Group V is probably the best answer, because going from $70 for 5L to $100 say for Motul or RP is not that big a jump in dollars.

For now Castrol Edge 0W-40 will be going into my car and I will advise how it goes. I expect that it will be thin enough for the VANOS but protect the engine at the same time. I will be stick to changing my oil every 4000-5000km and hope that I will not have to invest in another new VANOS.

On the topic of VANOS life, my car now is now up to its third unit and Holong's M3 is similarly up to number three, where both cars have had perfectly timed full dealer servicing. I would be curious for other M3 owners to look at their VANOS unit and advise the build date of it to perhaps determine whether it has been changed or not. The manufacturing year can be seen on the front just to the right of the exhaust solenoid.

At least our rescue is here with the existence of Dr Vanos and his ability to cure the noise issue for a fraction of replacement cost. He does indeed purchase old VANOS units too, as Morerevs stated, which makes me glad to be a horder and have kept my old unit as I have at least offset a little bit of that pain! See more at www.drvanos.com

mines at 97 3.2 at 136k, stamped 97 on the vanos
its defiantly on the way as its leaking, noisy and throwing a fault code
the power seems good then feels like its struggling to rev
its last oil change was april 08, used castrol edge by previous owner. the length in time could be the main factor why the vanos is dead

[///MOOVER]

mines at 97 3.2 at 136k, stamped 97 on the vanos
its defiantly on the way as its leaking, noisy and throwing a fault code
the power seems good then feels like its struggling to rev
its last oil change was april 08, used castrol edge by previous owner. the length in time could be the main factor why the vanos is dead

Too infrequent oil changes for the life of the car is likely to be the main cause as discussed earlier. Cars with oil changes every 5000 seem to have faired better than cars that have adhered to factory service intervals. Driving style is another cause where short local driving combined with long intervals will be a killer...

[holong]

Sounds like a good excuse to drive yours more often //MOOVER

Ive had my castrol edge in for about 1000k's now. Seems to be the goods. My Vanos does chatter a little bit, but not enough to worry about I don't think.... A small amount seems quite normal? It's definitely working fine.

[///MOOVER]

Sounds like a good excuse to drive yours more often //MOOVER

Well yes and no. Admittedly my last year's 1200km covered was the lowest I have ever put on a car, but those trips have been for longer runs and spirited drives like the ecca cruise we did. On that basis, I think that is better than using it for my 4km daily trip to work. I do think more "Sunday drives" would be in order though

[paulieM3]

so does royal purple not get a mention?

theres a cat on ebay selling RP for $79.95 for 5 litres

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....m=320317754194

you guys have obviously researched this far more than i have - i just thought it odd that RP wasn't mentioned considering people are always raving about it?

i thought a simple "buy it now" on the RP would solve my oil change dilemma but after reading this thread im not so sure

[slammedM3]

good find mate thats priced same as castrol edge
only seems to have 10w40 5w30 20w50
me personally and a few others are after 0w40
5w30 might have to be the go

[sprintman]

A few salient points here. The OEM VANOS seals are made from Buna an unsuitable product for the environment they are in. The seals need to be replaced with seals made from a far better material which will last for the life of the engine with regular oil changes. Beisan Systems make a seal kit as used by Dr. VANOS in their blueprinted units and of course available seperately for the DIY. All the major BMW forums have hundreds if not thousands of happy users. If you are going to do it, do it right.

http://www.beisansystems.com/

[slammedM3]

a good read on the vanos failures and issues with the solenoid seals and cover/gaskests
109 different M3 EVO owners responded to this thread and very little people have suffered a complete vanos failure


http://www.pistonheads.com/Gassing/t...E36%20M3%20EVO



i also have some good info from a RP REP in the UK that explains the 0w40 vs 10w40 much clearer which il post once permitted



.....

[paulieM3]

a good read on the vanos failures and issues with the solenoid seals and cover/gaskests
109 different M3 EVO owners responded to this thread and very little people have suffered a complete vanos failure


http://www.pistonheads.com/Gassing/t...E36%20M3%20EVO



i also have some good info from a RP REP in the UK that explains the 0w40 vs 10w40 much clearer which il post once permitted



.....

have u found someone that sells the 0w40w?

i havent touched mine in weeks now, im still angry with it after receiving a large speeding fine