2JZGTE E32 Conversion

[MrBlonde]

Last run of the night in Parrallel mode. No traction

Run 4

That launch technique needs work!

[BMWTurbo]

It turns out that 5+psi of the 6psi max backpressure in the exhaust I was seeing is due to 4-bends and the CAT.

I can't test the CAT independantly yet, but all my focus is on this as I think it's the culprit.

Solution:- I'm unsure of...

[BMWTurbo]

That launch technique needs work!

My 225-50-16's DR's will fix that

That was my first and only run in 'twin mode' it simply overpowered the street tyres and I couldn't get it back. Prior to that I couldn't get the tyres to even hint at turning.

Once I sort this exhaust issue out and am happy with the rest of the piping I'll be back out there for a play

[BMWTurbo]

Exhaust back pressure resolved by replacing the CAT.

I'm now seeing less then 2psi total backpressure in second gear and the most was just under 3psi in first gear high load fast rev out.

I've spent a little bit of time finally making a header tank for the radiator system in an effort to be able to bleed it 100%. I've never been 100% comfortable I've been bleeding it as the cap has been lower then some of the piping.




I have some more fine tuning that I want to do to it as well as blocking the previous cap overflow and feeding the new header tanks overflow outlet to the overflow bottle behind the passenger headlight.

[BMWTurbo]

Here's an images of the trailing arm inner pick-up eccentric fitment.



I used some custom made guide plates from RHS and the E39 style eccentric bolts, nuts and washer.

I managed to get the rear end settings from 3.75 deg negative camber a side back to 1.9/2 degrees negative camber and the toe in is now 0.5mm total.

This appears to have gone a ways towards fixing the inner edge wear on the tyres, which was driving me nuts (getting half a life out of a set of rear tyres).

Unfortunately although I have some more adjustment in the eccentrics I'm limited as to how much I can adjust as the tyres will start scraping the inner gaurds if I was to dial out any more negative camber.

One 'solution' term used loosely might be to have the wheels machined a couple of mm off the inner face which would give me that little bit more clearance to dial out some more negative camber. I could also look at flaring the gaurds 10mm each side would be roughly enough to be able to wind the adjusters right out and get the rear camber back to less then 1.5 deg negative static. I could possibly dial in a fraction more toe in too, which should help with more even tyre wear.

[Stoney]

i reckon if you can get your hands on a gaurd rolling tool easily, go that route, but just do the inner lip as much as you can, and as i mentioned elsewhere, machining the rim a little would also help,

i like more offset though! so roll the guards

i got a wheelo yesterday on my car, rear end camber was less than -1.5 deg

[BMWTurbo]

Stoney, you are doing well or a bit higher then mine to get less than 1.5 camber on the rear

Just read your thread and update, but am curious as to what they ended up setting your rear toe to?

I noticed that previously my tyres would chew terribly on the inside edge, indication toe-out was some of my problem, the camber is the rest:P oh and possibly my right foot on occassion :P

[Stoney]

didn't adjust the rear toe, they only changed the front toe, but i have the spec sheet here
rear left toe is +0.6mm, and camber is -1.5 deg
rear right toe is +1mm, and camber is -1.24 deg

front was set at 0mm total toe, and -1.2deg left camber and -0.5deg right camber

not ideal, and there is a difference between sides, but there is no adjustment (its all stock) and it's lowered, but i still for the life of me cannot work out what springs they are - black with a koni label on them, but cannot find koni springs, i have koni yellow shocks though

[BMWTurbo]

The type of spring and shock should not affect the geometry of the suspension any more then the change in ride height.

It's interesting to see you have toe OUT on the rear. Do you chew the inside edges of the tyres at all?

[Stoney]

tyre wear on the car so far has been really good, i've done over 10,000kms so far without any dramas or uneven tyre wear, the tyres are 235/45R17 kuhmo ecsta spt's, and were nearly new when i got the car

i'll check the tyres over again soon, but maybe the inside edge is starting to wear a little prematurely, not a big issue though like yours

as for my spring setup in the rear, i dont mind the height, i just actually want to know what they are

[BMWTurbo]

I have noticed that my tyres haven't gotten visually any worse over the last week or so, which I'm hoping means that I'm onto a winner.

I suspect the fact I'm running 265's exacerbates the issue.

[BMWTurbo]

I've been pulling my hair out with this over the last few weeks, where it seems everything was deciding to fail at the same time.

I had some 595SS tyres fitted and the tyre place suggested that my 'wear' was in fact load related. I've been using load rating '93' rubber, which is supposedly suitable for the car, but it's been suggested I should run I higher load rated tyre. Unfortunately the 595ss's aren't a higher rating, but once they wear out I'll put some 97 rated rubber on the rear and hopefully resolve the horrid wear issue.

I've resolved the A/C had some custom lines made up from the Toyota Compressor to the BMW system. The system has a new condensor, evap, TX valve, and dryer and is working well. I did have a noisey compressor, so I had to degass and replace that with another unit.

Have fitted a brand new 150 AMP high output alternator, only to have it fail twice in as many days and cost another $140 to have the BRAND NEW unit rebuilt. Turned out the alternator was non-genuine and the insulatino inside the unit on the rotor was flung off and allowed the rotor to short. I blew two sest of brushes in two days and ended up having it rebuilt with a different rotor, new bearings (one was noisey) and new brushes. I had it rebuilt rather then shipping it back over the US. I also spent a little bit of time with pulley sizing and output as I wasn't comfrotable with the factory output at idle. I fitted a slightly smaller diameter factory pulley being 57mm Dia in place of the 65mm dia pulley that came ont eh alternator and I now have 14.5 Volts output at idle. Even with the A/C lights and the thermo fan kicking in this stays above 14 Volts output, which is brilliant.

I had for the second time my harmonic balancer seperate last week, so I've done some engine repairs and used the opportunity to replace the hydraulic style water pump with a Supra style, without the hydraulic pump. I also replaced the ba;ancer with a new genuine Toyota unit, along with replacing the timing belt tensioner. I'd done the FMS, timing belt, and cam seals a few months back when I popped the FMS on the dyno, so no need to replace them again.

One other side project has been to resolve a slightly heating issue that car has always had when running at medium revs it seems to heat a bit more then would be expected. Even at highways speeds sometimes it would run hotter then I'd like. At idle it was perfect though with the fan only rarely cutting in when sittings for periods, so I knew my low RPM/idle cooling was fine.

I stumbled across a SPAL thermo/shroud arrangement that uses little rubber flaps as a one-way valve for letting air through the shroud when travelling at speed. I got hold of some 3mm insertion rubber and set off with my trusty hole saw with the alloy shroud I'd previously been running.

Fariyl self explenitary pictures and 'appears' to be worknig well.

[BMWTurbo]

A busy weekend planned fitting a bunch of new suspension parts that will hopefulyl resolve some slop in the front end and driveline. Also means I can get rid of the Noltec crap that's fallen apart.



New LCA, UCA, pitman arms, rear sway bar links, rear strut tops and new drive shafts.

Once I've got these sorted I'll be keen to head out to Willowbank for another play. I got hold of a GTech the other week and have had a quick play with it, but am finding it a bit out with it's readings of HP. I managed to get one 0-100 run in at 4.99 seconds, which seems bout right and could be bettered with a more agressive launch.

[BMWTurbo]

Everything fitted and wheel alignment done today.

I still have a tiny clunk in the diff nose CV. Though I replaced this item about 2years ago with a factory BMW part, so I'm not keen on replacing it again.

I had a wheel alignment done today and ended up with :-
Front :-
LH -------- RH
-1.25 deg -1.20 deg Camber
+1.4mm +1.4mm Toe
Rear :-
LH --------- RH
-1.57 deg -1.56 deg Camber
+1.1mm -0.5mm Toe

The rear toe I'm a little dubious about as the machine didn't have slide plates on the rear, but we got the best we could with the adjsutment I had.

Overall I'm happy with that as I can't physically run anymore more neg on the rear without rolling the gaurds. They aree already lipped and it just scuffs the plastic inner gaurds when full laiden...

[BMWTurbo]

Well small update, I've been sorting a few issues out.

I've had the soft spongy upper thrust arm bushes replaced with Eurothane, much firmer front end.

The new driveshafts wore after a few months use and a new deisgn replacement set has been fitted in thier place.

I've a new tailshaft CV on order for a while, apparently it's a 'special order' item I've found out after paying for the part, I'm at the mercy of the supplier now.

New slotted rotors and QFM HPX pads to replace the worn previous units.

I've also fitted twin intakes on the turbo's and have found much better response from the turbo's now. I'm also seeing more boost for the same settings on 1 and 2 turbo's.



Glenn Munro has helped me here doing an awesome fabrication job to replace the std twin intake piping. I'd previously taken readings on this piping both #1 and #2 intakes and determined that these were a restriction for my HF twins and an upgrade in this area would be benificial to both power and response.







I'm also halfway through getting a water injection system running, just need to wire the pump, solenoid and mount the spray nozzles.